Day 37 plus - Back home and Camino Glossary

I have always wondered when looking at my favorite Camino coffee mug the significance of a flying cow with wings carrying a Botafumerio (large incense burner) chasing other flying cows, but it will probably remain one of those great Camino mysteries - a sort of Camino nightmare!

While walking the Camino we started making up our own terminology.  This began last year while I was walking with my cousin Matthew, but here is an updated collection of Camino terms:

"Wifi Happiness"

The hostel or bar you are in has a good Wifi signal.

"Wifi Sadness". 

The reverse - no wifi signal.

"Guerilla Wifi"

Noting the Wifi code while in a bar, or cafe near your Albergue and entering it on your devices, so that the next morning, or when the cafe is closed, you can still send your blog, or check your emails before leaving the area.

"Camino charging discipline"

One of the basic skills of a Caminoer, to find vacant sockets anywhere and keep their mobile, iPad, camera, kindle charged up at all times.  This is despite there being another 55 Caminoers in the Albergue doing the same thing (when there are only a couple of sockets available).

"Camino Sportif"

A pilgrim who is merely interested in notching up mileage, or speed in order to complete their journey.

"Camino Hot"

A beautiful Camino Pilgrim.

"Slutty tan"

What South Korean pilgrims try to avoid by wrapping up well, when walking the Camino.

"Camino Tan"

A tanned face and neck, tanned arms ending at the T-shirt sleeves, tanned hands, other than white strap marks where walking pole straps are used, tanned calves to the knee, but completely white feet and ankle sock marks.

"Pilgrim Menu"

A three part menu costing 9€ to 11€, consisting of a plate of spaghetti Bolognese (called Macaroni),  chicken and chips (called Poyo) and "Flan" (which is in fact Creme Caramel) and half a bottle of red wine.

Unless you are Eila, when the menu is

Mixed Salad followed by Lentils and Fruit for pudding with water!

"Albergue Anxiety"

The anxiety caused by thinking that there will be nowhere to sleep that night as everywhere will be full.

"Lentil Sadness"

Lentils are not on the Pilgrim Menu.

"Camino Coffee Housing"

Spending too long having coffee and just not getting on with the days journey, thereby leading to increased "Albergue Anxiety".

"Camino Luxury"

This is basically anything that will improve dormitory life.  A power socket by your bed.  A bottom bunk in a semi filled dormitory allowing you to use the top bunk for organising all your stuff. An empty dormitory.  Not sleeping in a dormitory at all, but renting your own room, thereby having clean sheets, a towel and toiletries meaning that you don't even have to unpack you own pack!

"Short day"

Walking under 20 km per day.

"Long day"

Walking more than 30 km in a day.

"Brierley day"

Walking the same mileage as a stage in the Brierley Camino Guidebook.  You can walk from the halfway point on one Brierley map section to a point halfway through the map section for the next day.

"Brierley Panel"

Eila would be continually depressed by looking at the front of the Brierley Camino Guidebook where all the maps were miniaturised and arranged in a grid of columns 3 deep.  She called three daily maps a Brierley Panel!

"Peleton"

A huge group of pilgrims usually found after Sarria during the last 100 km into Santiago.  They are usually engaged in unpilgrim like activities, ie constantly on their mobile phones, or playing their music for the benefit of others around them.

"Day tripper/Day packer/Sarria poofda"

Persons walking the Camino having started at Sarria, but come out with expressions like "Where is that very long stretch without a break for about 4.5 km?!"  - Wet, or what!

"Helicopter Pilgrim"

A Caminoer, who always seems to be ahead of you when you reach your destination, despite the fact that you passed them during the day.  You suspect them of using other forms of transport, unless you are guilty of frequent Camino Coffee Housing.

"Camino Jumping"

A Caminoer, who has injured themselves, or needs to catch up with a flight schedule in order to reach Santiago by a set date, might use other transport to miss one, or more days walking.

And now slightly irreverently......

"Camino wife (husband)"

A couple who met on the Camino and seem to be together 99.5% of the time.  Unlikely to be an engaged, or recently married, but seem to be exceptionally close (eg holding hands at a table for two).

"Camino Sex"

Extremely unlikely as there is no privacy on the Camino.  If it did happen, the couple involved would have to become like Jude Law and Rachel Weisz in "Enemy at the Gates", a film about Russian snipers in St Petersburg during the Second World War.  They stayed in a kind of Sniper's Albergue, when not sniping, and had sniper sex while lying amongst the other sleeping snipers.  Extremely risky if you value your privacy, but if you are a sniper and just holding hands at table doesn't cut it....?!

Buen Camino!

Day 37 - Santiago de Compostela - Home

Day 37 - Wednesday, 28th May, 2014 - 0 km

[Eila outside 'The last Stamp' Albergue - Santiago]

[Santiago rain]

Santiago is a permanent party city as yet another group of pilgrims traipse in to the square in front of the cathedral to stand slightly dazed that their two weeks, or two months, or more has finally come to a close.  Those who are Pilgrims, who have walked a distance, feel that they have become a part of the history of the city.  The tourists who wander around visiting Santiago buy their Santiago pilgrim sticks and shells, but as you wander around with your back pack on, your clothes that are probably a bit smelly, your weathered tan and in my case 'bed bug' scars, you do feel a bit like the real deal, a cut above your average tourist!  

[Queues outside the Pilgrim Office issuing Compostelas]

We went to the Pilgrim office to collect our Compostela, our certificate issued by the church to recognise our endeavour.  The queues had been too long the previous day.  There was an old Australian volunteer marshalling the queue as pilgrims lined up to be seen.  He was meant to be there for the smoother running of the operation, but as he started to chat to each pilgrim at the head of the queue he tended to frustrate the speed of the operation, but no one seemed particularly bothered.

Eila had bumped into Jo and Beth, the two ladies we had started with, who were from Australia; we had agreed to meet for coffee immediately afterwards and compare notes.  We had set off from St.Jean and Orisson at the same time and this was us, just over five weeks later, having arrived in Santiago only a day apart.

[Jo and Beth from Australia at the end of their Camino]

[The coast of France from Ryanair]

Michael accompanied us to the bus stop for the airport.  He was staying on to continue to Muxia and Finisterre over the next week.  Eila and I returned home to catch the end of half term and children coming home briefly from 'gap years travel' and university, husbands and wives.

I don't think I found walking the Camino any easier a second time, although not having surprises like another hill, or how the day would end, uphill or down, made it quite predictable.  The Way had been much more crowded and whether that was the warmer Spring or increased publicity, I don't know.  We had walked as a 'three' for the whole journey baring the first week.  We had each helped each other through blisters, problematic tendons, heat exhaustion, bed bugs and sore ribs (from a fall).  Eila, who had found Alburgue dormitory life a bit of a trial surprised me in the latter stages by walking into a questionable dormitory and saying "well this is really quite nice", you could have knocked me over with a feather.

My brother Richard, who faithfully followed our progress through the North of Spain, followed my and Eila's RyanAir flight home with his aircraft 'App' on his iPad and matched it with my son Ruaraidh and wife's progress on the shipping 'App' AIS as they sailed out of Guernsey and noted that we flew directly above them in the Channel Islands.

Meanwhile Michael has continued to Finnisterre on his own and I hope that experience goes well.  Jeff, who we had walked with is also making for Finisterre separately.

Will I walk the Camino again?  Who knows!

Buen Camino.

[A welcome home meal with my brother Richard and cousin Matthew for a Camino debrief, in Balham London]

Day 36 - Monte del Gozo to Santiago de Compostela

Day 36 - Tuesday, 27th May, 2014 - 4.7 km

[Michael, Eila and Rupert outside the Cathedral, Santiago]

And so to our final day of walking.  We only had 4.8 km to do to get into Santiago.  The plan was to try to get a place to stay at San Martino Pinario, the Semenario.  So we followed the last of the yellow arrows into the old part of the city and dropped down beside the Cathedral.  We decided that we might drop or packs off so tried our luck at the plush hotel that allowed some space for pilgrims.  We asked at reception and they apologised that they were fully booked.  This would have meant that they allowed pilgrims to book place by phone and ring ahead, which was not much consolation for us who had deliberately adjusted our journey to get into Santiago at a good time.  There was nothing for it and we decided to immediately go and stand in front of the Cathedral and just acknowledge our feat - 760 Km's about 500 miles.  It was still early in the morning and having watched some jubilant Spanish cyclists arrive and pose for photos of this event, we headed around to the side of the Cathedral where we might get our Compostela, our certificate from the church authorities recognising our pilgrimage.  The queue was large and we ended up meeting Franz and Leile from Eindhoven in Holand.  We had all been at Orisson together at the very start of the Camino and Franz had mistakenly carried a tent with him because of the rather out of date advice he had found on the internet (about 23 years out of date).  They were both looking well and there were no signs of scars on Franz' face from his previous fall wearing his backpack.

[Leile and Franz outside the Compostela Office Santiago]

As we were still wondering about accommodation, Jules a lady from Scotland appeared and greeted us; we had kept on bumping into her during our evening stops and we had been having frequent conversations.  She said that she was staying at a new Albergue called "The Last Stamp" just up the hill from where I had stayed before.  She recommended it, so we immediately made our way there and booked into the aptly named "Last Stamp" .  

Michael had a brilliant idea that we should have dinner in the Parador, the sumptuous hotel in old monastic buildings at the side and looking on to the main square beside the Cathedral.  It would certainly make a wonderful end to our travels and Jules asked if she could join us.  We all went to the Pilgrims Mass at the Cathedral at midday and although the Botafumerio (the chunky incense burner) was hanging above the main altar, they had decided that it should have a rest until the Ascension Day Mass a couple of days later.  So sadly we were not treated to the strange, now purely historical act of sending an over large incense burner into the lofty heights of the Cathedral to fumigate stinky pilgrims, but what a wonderful toy!

Whever I have been in Santiago I have been treated to wonderful weather, but we were to experience Santiago's normally weather which is fairly rainy.  We retreated for a rest before our end of walk, end of term dinner at the Parador.  Although we were not patrons of the hotel we certainly made the most of our stay being the last to leave at quarter to midnight.  We had opted for a glass of Orujo (Orutho) to end the evening and a much more powerful and larger quantity of the liqueur arrived ensuring that our walk back to the "Last Stamp" was not as straight as it might have been.  It had been a fantastic evening, which had started with Michael treating us to a bottle of champagne in an establishment where you would normally felt a bit underdressed if you had gone in your climbing boots and slightly holy Marino wool jersey! (My mother would have said - "no darlings you are not going like that are you!") 

Buen Camino

Enjoying the Parador Santiago, Jules, Michael and Eila]

Day 35 - Santa Irene to Monte del Gozo

Day 35 - Monday, 26th May, 2014 - 18.1 km

[Galician Eucalyptus forests on the outskirts of Santiago]

[Galician Eucalyptus forests on the outskirts of Santiago]

[Galician Eucalyptus forests on the outskirts of Santiago]

[Michael and Eila on the final straight stretch of road to Monte del Gozo]

So we really do have an end of term feeling.  We are making for the outskirts of Santiago, to an Alberguue that seems to be based on a Soviet style holiday camp.  The idea is that because it is near Santiago we can set off for our destination from the Soviet holiday camp and be there after just an hour of walking.  This is working on the principle that arriving in Santiago late in the day and trying to work out affordable and comfortable accommodation is not always possible.  We were also hoping to be one of the first groups of pilgrims in line to get a place at the Semenario San Martin Pinario.  This is a multi star hotel that gives over their top floor to pilgrims and allows them as much breakfast material as they want (and they have a very varied breakfast menu).

So although we could make Santiago today, we were just going to stop short and visit the two great pilgrim statues that look out from the hill there over to Santiago where you can just glimpse the Cathedral in the distance.  Once again we were the last to leave the Albergue and we walked in threatening rain that never came.  Very soon we passed the end of the runway of the Santiago Aiprort, just as a plane landed, this would be a bus ride from Santiago of 20 odd minutes.  We reached Monte del Gozo in the afternoon and went over the ridge of the hill to pose by the pilgrim monument before walking back to the route and booking ourselves into the strange Soviet style holiday camp hostel.

Buen Camino.

[The happy pilgrim sculpture at Monte del Gozo overlooking Santiago]

[Monte del Gozo - the Soviet style hostel for 500 if necessary]

Day 34 - Boente to Santa Irene

Day 34 - Sunday, 25th May, 2014 - 24.7 km

[Typical Galacian farmyard]

[Leaving Boente Albergue]

[Galecian Eucalyptus forests]

[Eila, Ribadiso Bridge]

[Ribadiso]

[Eila finally succombing to an omelette in a roll type diet]

[New Camino motorway bridge...]

[...but Motorway shelved]

[Camino marker]

[Eila and Michael - hippy bar, Salceda]

Today was the last full walking day.  Our destination Sante Irene was in striking distance of Santiago.  I had stayed at the Albergue a couple of times before and knew it would be a good spot to be one of our final Albergues.

We seemed to be getting tireder and tireder as the the days went on and although we were reducing our daily mileage, the second half of the day's walking always seemed as hard.

We stopped off at Salceda on the way which is an unusual Hippy type cafe where they encourage you to graffiti and leave T-shirts which they hang from the ceiling.

We reached Sante Irene Albergue and took the last three places there. Maybe Eila was right to have Albergue Anxiety.

Buen Camino.

[Hippy bar, Salceda]

[Hippy bar, Salceda]

[Santa Irene Albergue]

[Santa Irene Albergue]

Day 33 - Ligonde to Boente

Day 33 - Saturday, 24th May, 2014 - 28.8 km

[Setting off towards Palas de Rei]

[On the way to Palas de Rei]

[On the way to Palas de Rei]

[Eila, leaving Palas de Rei]

Today was overshadowed by the European Football Chamionships Final between Real Madrid and Athletico Madrid.  There has been so much run up to this game it seemed that the whole of Madrid had taken a coach to Lisbon to be there on the neutral territory for the final.  Eila and Michael were also keen to get to a place where we might catch sight of the game.

We had decided to walk past Melide, where many pilgrims would stop, but we were also aware that getting in late might mean all the places in the Albergue we had chosen, might be taken.

We arrived at the new Albergue at Boente to find that we had just been pipped at the post by a couple leaving only one spare bed.  If we had beaten them to it, there would have been three spare beds.  There was nothing for it, but to go on.  It was a shame because the new Albergue was equipped with a large bar and television screen and the pre match programmes were already underway.

We left to go onwards and found that there was an older Albergue just round the corner.  W asked whether there were any places and there were.  We had a dormitory to ourselves and were still able to pop next door to watch the big match!  We seemed to have fallen on the perfect solution because the previous popular Albergue was crowded out.

The big match for me was not very interesting and I returned to our dormitory early and immediately fell asleep (with the lights on).  I was awoken by Eila and Michael returning late to find the hostel locked up and they rang me on my mobile to see whether I could unlock a fire exit to let them in.  The match, which had been a 1- 0 score throughout, had been changed by Real Madrid scoring a goal to draw the match in the last minute.  They then went on to score three more goals in extra time - a very thrilling match by all accounts.

Buen Camino.

[On route to Melide]

[Bridge on the way to Melide]

[Furelos]

Day 32 - Morgade to Ligonde

Day 32 - Friday, 23rd May, 2014 - 26.9 km

[Leaving the Albergue at Morgade]

Today I woke up in the early hours of the morning itching like hell and realised that I was being bitten.  I turned on my iPhone torch and realised that my pillow was covered in all manner of creepy crawlies.  I had finally succumbed to what most Caminoers fear - bedbugs.  The interesting thing was that we had stayed in a private room that night and two night previous.  I previously thought I had been bitten by mosquitoes, but those must have been bedbugs as well.  It appears that they normally bite your arms, shoulders and face and can be sorted out by cleaning all your clothes and using some sort of anti itching creme.  For the rest of the night I shoved my pillow up as far as it would go against the bed head and moved as far as I could down the bed to be away from the offending circus of activity.

It is interesting to note that we never had this problem at Albergues, which were always spotless, but in private rooms, where sheets and towels were provided.

[On the route to Portomarin]

[Portomarin Bridge]

[Portomarin Bridge]

[Portomarin old pedestrian bridge]

[Eila walking to Ligonde]

The next day was spent for me trying to find an Albergue with a washing machine that would put an end to any of the creatures that remained on my clothing.  I then experimented with different kinds of treatment to deal with the itching caused by the bites.  On our travels we went over the bridge into Portomarin and received extremely helpful advice from the pharmacist there.

The afternoon was spent walking the long upward climb out of Portomarin and we eventually found a Hostal in Ligonde.  It was a new basic Hostal with washing machine and dryer.  I was able to shower and wait in my towel and anorak afterwards until the whole contents of my pack had been cleaned.  Michael even brought me a beer to have in the dormitory while I waited!

Buen Camino.

[Rupert (Waiting for my clothes to wash and dry) in the dormitory - Ligonde]

[Albergue Ligonde]